For smaller prints (few inches) PETG is more forgiving when you run with a bit of overextrusion (I see the 103% on your infill), but with bigger parts, that bit of overextrusion that some people suggests (works really well with transparent PETG) can case surface deformations at higher layers. If quality, I go with a bit of underextrusion on the 100% infill. When I print PETG, I decide whether I care about strength or quality. It can also happen from a bit too much extrusion on the infill, which can easily happen when you are using 100% fill. Could be that your nozzle deposited material here which happens easily with PETG due to its stringiness. Those humps indicate something is wrong with the layers below. But ultimately, it depends on what you're doing and how fussy you are. I find nearly every commercial printer is good for PLA, but once you get into other plastics, various design issues start to show up. You are also going to run into a barrier somewhere (at some point) with using a stock cooling fan. I basically never print a part with one profile, unless it's a fast and sloppy run. That's where Simpilf圓D variable settings come in handle. If you want to do that with no support, you need to print the perimeter slower for this section (5 mm/s) and ideally smaller layer heights (~0.1 mm, or 0.05 mm if your printer can handle it). So you get a very messy perimeter, and that plastic is going to coat your nozzle and probably get deposited else where on the part and cause additional issues. If the bed is 75-80C, there's no way those layers are cooling down enough not to deform (they are way too close to the bed). Only Wipe Extruder for outer-most perimetersĪvoid Crossing Outline for Travel Movementsįrom what I see, you are printing with no supports, which explains the extrusion mess I marked. Optimize Start Points for Fastest Printing SpeedĪdjust Printing Speed for Layers below 15 secįilament Diameter: 1.7 (measured with calipers) Sorry for the exceptionally long list of my settings, but i wanted to include everything i could! Thanks again everyone! Thanks in advance, i very much appreciate the help!!
#SIMPLIFY 3D PETG PROFILE PLUS#
I am printing on a Monoprice Maker Select Plus with the MicroSwiss all-metal hotend. So i just completed my first larger print using PETG (eSUN solid purple PETG), and ran into a few issues that i was hoping y'all could help me with! Each picture of the print (the inverted Ciii cooler) highlights an issue that i saw, from the stringiness to the bumps on the main top layer to the inconsistent layering to the (what i think) is bad bridging.i've also included screen shots of each page of my settings in Simplif圓D.any help or advice would be most welcome! I've been trying to dial in my PETG settings the last few days, and while i've made some major improvements in some smaller prints, this larger one definitely showed me that i am not quite there yet. I added the factory file for the cube so you can see the settings I am using.Īpologies for double-posting, but i think i accidentally deleted my initial post, so here it is! I also realized that i can apparently only upload 3 photos at a time, so i am just uploading three showing some of the issues i'm running into and i'll post my settings below. used 20% infill should have probably only done 10% a PETG is really strong stuffĪlso printed a lot of parts for an E-nable hand I am making for certification with the group White parts are the PETG I am currently printing a larger measuring cube just to see how it looks. I have had good luck with this product but it is defiantly more gooey than other filaments. Also I don't print anything faster than 60mms for big things and 45 for small things. This is producing a slightly fat thin walled cube but for what I am doing currently I would rather be slightly fat then under.įor retraction I am using 1.10mm at a retraction speed of 60mm.
Right now it is averaging around 1.71 and with that set I have my E multiplier at 92. Mine was running fairly close to 1.75 then recently dropped to 1.69. Pull out about 4 yards of filament and measure it every 6-12 inches and enter that average into the Other Tab. I will assume you have an accurate digital caliper.
Support for Original Prusa i3 MK2.5S / MK2.I am using eSun White PETG on a MakerGear M2 with a. Support for Original Prusa i3 MK3S / MK3
Link to the guide (includes the package with settings): Use our step-by-step guide to import the settings 😉 Josef and his team created a bundle of settings for the Simplif圓D (S3D) software! After rigorous testing, we are happy to add support for Original Prusa printers.
Simplif圓D (S3D) settings for the Original Prusa printers
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